We decided to do a quick road trip tour of Namibia when a friend was in town. We originally thought about getting a camping 4×4 The kind with pop-up tents on the roof. But in the end, the desire to sleep in an actual bed won the day. So we quickly threw together a plan that would mean nearly 40 hours and 3,800 K/ (2,350 miles) of driving.
We picked up our 4×4 in the morning and set off for the border. It was really cool to drive along the western cape on the N7 and get a feel for the rest of the Western Cape. One thing about South Africa is that it certainly has a varied landscape. The metro area of Cape Town gave way to green grapevines, which gave way to arid mountainous regions.
Arriving at the border for Namibia we were quickly reminded of the typical governmental bureaucracy that South Africa seems to take to new heights. After 45 minutes to an hour navigating multiple buildings to get stamps and a police check, we were finally on our way. I wish I could say there was a long line as usually seen at airports, but nope it was just everyone moving at the pace of molasses in a nuclear winter.
Leaving the border crossing we were quickly dropped into a landscape that resembled something seen on the Moon or Mars. We were all amazed at how empty it seemed. Outside of the occasional car we met, it seemed that we were truly alone. We had been advised that driving on Namibian roads at night was something to avoid at all costs, so we were on a mission to get to our first stop before nightfall. Unfortunately, the delay at the border meant we just missed it.
A quick note here: Namibia has “A”, “B”, “C”, and “D” roads. “A” and “B” roads are paved, “C” and “D” roads are gravel. Just like your last exam A is best, and it goes downhill from there.
The next day we decided to take a longer route on a “C” road. WOW!!!! The views we saw on this road were simply amazing, While we took a ton of pictures none of them can do what we saw justice. If you are a professional landscape photographer you should get to Namibia, you won’t regret it. If oceans are your thing Namibia’s also got you covered.
We hit a couple of cities on our tour: first up was the coastal city of Walvis Bay; and then the capital city, Windhoek. Walvis Bay felt a bit like a quaint retirement community. While, Windhoek reminded me of an American city that was at its prime 20 years ago. Given the incredible brutal history of Namibia, it’s great to see these cities doing as well as they look to be. All in all, it seems that Namibia on track to have a bright future.
I’ve gotta say that I really didn’t know what to expect from Namibia, but this experience was amazing and I hope that more people take the time to explore this beautiful country. We had such a great time that we are already talking about doing it again but maybe get in some camping. We just need to be sure to have plenty of water, since Namibia is s the driest country in sub-Saharan Africa.
– Until next time.
How great was our lodge? So great that they gave us a bonus excursion. Since our flight wasn’t leaving until after lunch our guide decided to take us out for an additional morning game drive.
Since we had already been able to see all of the big 5, this was just “gravy”. I took advantage of this time to focus on the landscape and plant life. In an environment as harsh and generally unspoiled by man as this area, there were some truly amazing specimens. There were certain areas and plants that reminded me of scenes from the post apolyptic “Fallout” video game series.
While we were driving around, we saw more of some of the same animals we had seen previously. But unlike previous sightings we were able to get better and closer views of the Marabou storks, Water buffalo, warthogs, and Kudo. It was a nice way to cap off the safari or so I thought.
As we were enjoying these additional sightings, I noticed that our driver seemed to be doubling back, at first I thought this was to get us an even better view of the water buffalo we had just seen. But our guide Jeffrey had other plans.
We got up close and personal with a leopard. For some reason being this close to the leopard made me more nervous than being that close to an entire pride of lions. Lions may be the king of the jungle, but this leopard seemed like it didn’t care and was willing to challenge that notion. After we got some beautiful shots and were driving away, we saw another leopard. Jeffery let us know that this was most likely a pair of siblings.
So now that we had truly seen all the big 5 and have some great pictures as proof it was time to head back. The game reserve was literally across the street from the tiny airport, so they provided us with a shuttle to the Hoedspruit
If you are planning a trip to South Africa and want to do a Safari, I cannot recommend Safari.com and the Kapama private game reserve enough. I would gladly go again and repeat this experience hopefully with our same guide. I asked our guide what the best time to visit is and he said August, September, and October. July tends to still be a bit cold, but it is ok. Once you get into November it starts to get hot, and shortly after that, it’s the rainy season.
The 3rd day of the safari began a bit chilly. But our guide had again provided us with hot water bottles and fleece parkas. Once we were situated we headed out. Off the bat, we saw more zebras. While we were driving around our guide noticed a pride of lions on the move. Our guide commented that these lions weren’t as healthy as the pride we had seen earlier. To our untrained eyes, it appeared that they had mange. After we watched them for a bit we moved a bit down the trail and saw some giraffes and a herd of wildebeests. The pride of lions must have picked up the scent because they moved into the area and started to look like me at a seafood buffet. Unlike me, they exhibited some patience and watched what they hoped was their next meal. We left the area before they decided it was time to eat. On the way back to the lodge our guide located the reserve’s most famous lion. He had just taken down a warthog and was relaxing after his breakfast.
Breakfast was again delicious and the time to relax before lunch was welcome. We took advantage of the rest time to relax on our deck and watch the Antelopes that were grazing below. After the antelopes made their way to other parts, we headed to the bar for a quick pre-lunch cocktail (gotta keep the malaria away). After lunch, we went back to our room for a bit, but came early for tea and enjoyed talking to the other guests.
We were happy to get on the trail again and hoped that we’d be able to see the only one of the Big 5 we hadn’t seen yet. But first, we checked on the lion with the fresh kill, he was still guarding his meal, and not overly active. Before we could get bored our guide decided to take us into leopard country. On the way, we saw waterboks, rhinos, and another solo lion with a freshly killed giraffe. The leopard area was a bit more rugged and provided ample hiding spots for the leopards. We eventually saw a leopard hiding in very dense shrubbery.
Now that we had officially seen all the big 5 it was time to head back to the lodge for dinner. This night our guide dinned with us. This was truly a great way to the end the safari as our guide opened us to us more about his experience under apartheid and answered our questions on the history of this area of South Africa.
-stay tuned for more.
The second day of our safari adventure got off to an early start with a 5 am wake-up call. Thankfully the room had a coffee pod machine, so I could caffeinate before seeing people. We then had a quick breakfast. This was to essentially get your blood flowing for the 6 am game drive.
It was a bit chilly, so we appreciated the fleece ponchos that had been placed in our seats along with hot water bottles. I tried to scoff at the need for the poncho or the hot water bottle, but riding along in an open land cruiser at 20-30 mph for three hours can get cold.
As we were driving along on the unpaved roads our driver pointed out hippos, Marabou storks and Zebra. All of
After this, we drove around a bit more and saw some dazzles of zebra. Returning to the lodge at 9 am we had “big breakfast”. While quite delicious there weren’t any adventurous options. After breakfast, everyone returned to their rooms for a nap or to clean up. Lunch was then served around noon and afternoon tea at 3 pm. Being good folks from Wisconsin we decided we should have a gin and tonic, strictly to keep the malaria away.
The afternoon drive started at
After the high point of the lions, we drove around a bit more to look for more game, but I was enjoying the diversity of the landscape and sunset. We enentually made our way back to the lodge. For dinner, I opted to be adventures again and had wildebeests. We were happy to go back to our room to wind down and prepare for the exciting day that awaited us. Those 5 am wake-up calls come early after all.
more to come.
We finally went on a safari after a few delays and bumps along the way
We had originally planned to do this trip in January, with P’s brother and his wife. Unfortunately, P’s brother had a health issue come up and they needed to reschedule. The aspect of rescheduling is deserving of its own post, but in the end everything worked out. Long story short… P’s parents joined us instead.
The trip to the lodge began with two ladies sitting on opposite sides of the plane serenading the entire plane with their conversation for the ENTIRE flight. I can only assume that they were rehearsing for a stage play of some sort and thought everyone would enjoy the free performance. Spoiler alert, they were wrong. Either that or they were extremely hard of hearing and didn’t realize they were shouting.
We landed in the Nelspruit airport and took a shuttle to the lodge. The shuttle trip was about 2 hours and we were able to take in a large swath of the South African landscape we hadn’t seen before. Thankfully the shuttle had great air conditioning as it was 35c/95f outside.
Arriving at the lodge we were greeted by the lodge manager for a personalized check-in and got to meet our tracker and guide. After a quick overview of the rooms and layout of the lodge, we had a quick tea and went out on our first Game drive. We saw 3 (Elephants, Rhinos, and Buffalo) of the big 5 within the first 2 hours of the drive! We only needed the cats and we’d have all of the big 5.
Arriving back at the lodge we were able to have dinner with our guide. It was a great opportunity to get to know him better and ask any questions we had. The meal was simply amazing. I went with the adventurous choice for the appetizer and didn’t regret it. The appetizer was zebra and the main was a super tender beef fillet. Since our morning would start at 5 am, we all skipped the bar and went to our rooms for the evening to wind down.
Since this trip was so epic, I’m going to break it up into multiple posts.
-Stay tuned for more.